A Case for STEARN
a systematic approach to anchor building and evaluation
Over a decade of experience teaching novices and experts alike the ins and outs of technical anchor systems has brought me to use a new acronym over some of the more traditional EARNEST or SRENE systems.
Here’s what it is and why you should, too… S.T.E.A.R.N.
S. Strong: No matter the system you are using, this is the most important component and should be considered first. If your anchor fails, it's catastrophic, so whether it's a one-piece (monolithic) or a zillion pieces, it needs to be “unquestionably” strong. Evaluate the macro and micro features alike. How attached is this feature to the mountain? How bomber or not is the rock quality itself, etc.
T. Timely: Your anchor should be appropriate for the application you are using it for. Discipline, style, medium, and ability are all factors that play in here, and your anchor should reflect the needs of the moment. Climbing in 5th-class terrain to a secure stance, climbing steep snow, or protecting a move of exposed 4th class are all different scenarios that demand a different level of protection. Your anchor choice should take that into consideration and your choices should reflect the needs of your anchor. Choosing the right solution for the application should be timely and effective.
E. Equalized: Are all components of your anchor system receiving more or less equal amounts of the hypothetical load? Is the direction of pull adjusted for? Even if equalization is a myth, we should aim for doing it, and when we don’t, we should have a good reason why not.
A. Angle: Is the angle between my anchor's outermost “legs” less than or equal to 60 degrees? Less than 90 degrees? The wider the angle (above 90 degrees), the more force the anchor components will receive.
R. Redundant: Do I have redundancy in my protection and/or my joining fabric? i.e., more than one cam in the system, or closed loops of fabric, so if one part fails, it will not be catastrophic. Of course, these can be violated, but I need a good reason to do so and/or appropriate application to terrain/skill.
N. No or Limited Extension: If a component of my anchor system fails, how far will my Primary Point drop, and how much shock loading am I willing to accept in any given application? Remember, the more you limit extension, the more you limit dynamic range or dynamic self-equalization, and the more you have, the more the anchor can adapt to a load shift. These properties are directly inverse to each other.
No matter where you go or what you are doing, STEARN provides a systematic approach for critical thinking and decision making while anchor building in dynamic terrain. This is by no means a “re-invention of the wheel” for anchor building guidelines, but I do think it’s better than what’s out there.
And with that, I’ll leave you with one of my favorite (and appropriate) quotes:
“Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” ― Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
Fun Facts: The AI Overlords define, “The surname Stearn means "severe" or "strict." It originates from the Old English word "styrne," which also meant the same. The word "stern" itself, with the same root, is used to describe someone who is hard, severe, or strict.”
Know the rules so you can break them well.
What do you think? What did I miss? Leave a comment and let me know.
